Monday, October 31, 2011

Perms!

The first week in Core was introductions to Xcell and the 2nd week was texture week! We learned pin curls, roller sets (pictures and instructions to come), perms and relaxers. 

Here are pictures and instructions on how to do a standard, nine-section perm.
First you need to know the 19 perm steps:
1. Consultation
2. Double Drape
3. Release Form
4. Clarifying Shampoo
5. Wrap
6. Cotton
7. Process
8. Check Curl
9. Rinse
10. Towel Blot
11. Paper Towel Blot
12. Air Neutralize
13. Cotton
14. Neutralize
15. Drop Rods
16. Rinse
17. Towel Blot
18. Style
19. 2-Minute Plan

First you need to shampoo your guest. In the Paul Mitchell world, we shampoo with Shampoo Three, which is a clarifying shampoo to break down all the dirt and buildup in your hair. Next you need to double drape your guest: 1 towel underneath the cape, the chemical cape, and then a towel on top to protect the guest’s neck and clothes from the chemicals. At Paul Mitchell Schools, students are not licensed professionals, so as a guest you must sign a release form basically saying that you can’t sue us if we mess up.
Part the hair into 9 standard sections. A mow-hawk section from the hairline to the apex, then from the apex to right below the Occipital bone,  and from the Occipital bone to the neckline. From the apex you will split the hair to the Mastoid Process on both sides. You now have 5 sections. From there you will connect the Mastoid Process to below the Occipital bone. This will give you your 9 sections.


 You will then wrap the perm. You use "perm papers" to protect the ends of the hair from frizzing out. Make sure they are straight and have no fish hooks for this will hurt the ends after the perm is processed. put cotton around hairline and neckline to protect the face. Apply the perm solution and let it process according to the manufacturer's instructions.

After the timer dings, you will do a test curl, or curl evaluation. You will pick rods from each section on the head and see if the curl is processed. Unwrap the curl one and a half times. You are looking for a S pattern. After you have deemed that the perm is ready, you will rinse it. The rinsing rule is to use the hottest water that your guest can handle for 5 minutes. For hair over 5 inches long, you will rinse the hair an additional minute for each additional inch. For example, if the hair is 10 inches long, you will rinse the hair for 10 minutes. Another way to tell that you are finished rinsing is when you can no longer smell the perm. You will then towel blot the hair to get out all the excess moisture. To make sure the hair is still not soaking, you will paper towel blot it as well. Let the hair air neutralize for 5 minutes. Apply the cotton along the hairline and the neckline again and apply the neutralizer to the hair. Let it process according to the manufacturer's instructions. You will then take out (or drop) the rods from the hair and rinse again. You will then towel blot the hair again to get the excess moisture out and then style the hair. I, personally, use Paul Mitchell Sculpting foam and Paul Mitchell Awapuhi Wild Ginger Texturizing Sea Spray in my perm. 


You then follow up with your two minute plan, which is what Paul Mitchell Professionals use to show and educate their guests on take home (product) and make them feel loved and important as they check out. This is the time to prebook your guest's next appointment and "hug" them goodbye.

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